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Idyllic Bohemian Mexican Village of Yelapa Beckons to Retirees Truly Wanting to Escape Modern Day Life

Cost of Living:  One Third to One Half of the U.S. National Average

Yelapa, Mexico, located along the Pacific coast just south of Puerto Vallarta, is a tranquil fishing village of roughly 1,200 people, mostly Mexicans but also a sizeable number of expatriate retirees, primarily from the U.S. and Canada.  These folks comprise nearly 1/3 of the total population during the high season, and about 100 or so gringo retirees live here year round.  Yelapa is accessible only by boat, and there are a number of daily water taxis that carry tourists and residents alike to and from the village and Puerto Vallarta each day (cost is roughly $12 one way, and there is an office at the end of the Los Muertos Pier to assist visitors).

This is truly life in the slow lane, far, far away from modern day problems, and, yes, conveniences.  Phone service is now fairly standard (and there is even a business where you can receive faxes), but for years it consisted of one to two public phones for the entire village.  Electricity is limited and spotty (bring a flashlight).  The roads are dirt, and there are no cars; everything is accessible by foot or burro. Chickens and pigs share the streets with humans.  Homes are lit by candlelight and kerosene lamps.  

The tourists who come to visit usually stay for lunch, take a stroll on the beach and then return to Puerto Vallarta before dinner.  There are no large hotels.  The expatriates who live here throughout the year tend to be free-spirits, mainly writers, painters, musicians and those dropping out and enjoying a simpler life.  It is easy to see the appeal.   The people are friendly; the scenery is beautiful and days melt into a one another under the blue skies, hazy clouds and warm temperatures.

Yelapa is located at the foot of the Sierra Madre Mountains and sits between the ocean and the jungle.  The main beach has a number of open-air, thatched roof restaurants (Sarandeado - barbecued fish on a stick - is a local specialty) and is a fine place to spend an afternoon sipping a tropical drink while watching the boats and tourists come and go.   Only one restaurant, Marlins, accepts Visa or Mastercard; most transactions in Yelapa are via cash, and dollars are always accepted, but local merchants may not have change for larger (i.e., $20) bills.    After dark, beach bonfires bring residents out to enjoy the stars and live music.   

The village itself is a short walk from the beach and has a number of businesses, including a post office (mail is delivered and picked up once a week on Tuesday), a couple of internet cafes (The Vortex Cafe and Mimi's Restaurant), a bakery, a pool hall, a fresh water store, three small markets, a dance hall, some candy stores, various restaurants, the local Catholic church, which holds daily masses, and a fish market.  

Yelepa also has a sizeable arts community with nearly thirty art galleries and studios that showcase some remarkable local talent; many of these artists also show their work in the U.S. and Canada, and they offer free weekly workshops that anyone can attend.   There is a local language school, the Yelapa English Spanish Institute, to help those who need to brush up on their Spanish, and the Yelapa Oasis is a wonderful retreat/resort with casitas in a garden setting.  There is also a free local medical clinic, but major medical emergencies would have to be taken care of in Puerto Vallarta.   One store sells over the counter drugs and some prescription drugs (no prescription required).

 

There is also a youth center that was founded by an American.  By U.S. standards, all of these businesses and facilities are very rustic, often with just a few items for sale; there is not a lot of money in Yelapa, but that is much of its appeal.  

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